Sweden: The Winner Takes It All
Sweden: The Winner Takes It All
Sweden has some amazing cultural ambassadors. Whether it's the furniture juggernaut (and surprisingly popular purveyor of meatballs) IKEA, the pop megastars ABBA, or even the Muppet character 'The Swedish Chef,' Sweden’s culture is instantly recognizable around the world. Also well known is its political system, becoming shorthand for the type of social democratic welfare state that politicians like Bernie Sanders might be fighting for.
Of course, less talked about is the path it took to get there. Sweden has the second most unionized workforce in the world, with 7 out of 10 Swedish workers belonging to a union. It is beaten in this distinction only by its fellow Scandinavian nation of Iceland. How did this come to be? What role did those little IKEA meatballs play? What exactly was the Swedish chef cooking?
Of course, the lighthearted nature of Sweden’s pop culture touchstones is mirrored in its cuisine, with many hearty, bright filling dishes. But, dishes that powered a populace through some of the most grueling labor struggles any nation has experienced.
Today we talk about how barrels full of pickled herring powered Swedish workers through one of the largest General Strikes in history, how those little meatballs became a foundational part of the lunch meetings Swedish workers engaged in while organizing for a bigger slice of the pie, how a mash of roots fed freezing miners in a grueling arctic strike during WWII, and how yellow pea soup became emblematic of a new type of Sweden that took care of its own. Sound farfetched? I’m asking you to take a chance on me, grab a fork and knife, and get ready to chow down on the smorgasbord of history.
Inlagd Sill (Pickled Herring): Take a Chance on Me
Herring’s the lifeblood of Sweden’s cold seas, pickled since medieval times to outlast brutal winters when hunger stalked the fjords. Brine, vinegar, and later sugar turned it sweet, a festive star at Christmas, Easter, and Midsommar. But, it was no dainty treat; it remained a fully working class staple: cheap, filling, and stashed in every pantry.
In the early 1900s, the Swedish working class was worked to the bone. Due to the country’s vast natural resources, Sweden had become a major producer of timber, iron ore, fish, and adjacent manufactured products like steel, paper, and ball bearings. The concentration of Sweden’s labor in export industries led to a few things. Firstly, it led to that labor force becoming increasingly unionized, with most belonging to the Swedish Trade Union Confederation (Landsorganisationen, or LO). Secondly, it led to companies coming together in conglomerates to oppose that unionization, such as the Swedish Employers Association (Svenska Arbetsgivareforeningen, SAF). Thirdly, the Swedish economy was becoming very concentrated in these few industries, meaning that all their eggs were literally in one basket.
This concentration of economic power in the hands of a few large employers, coupled with an increasingly unionized workforce would become a powderkeg. An economic downturn in the export industry in 1909 would cause the fuse on this powderkeg to be lit. Employers were looking to cut wages, while their workforces were hearing none of it. So, they started resorting to lockouts, not allowing workers to come to work until they accepted the company demands. With a harsh winter, bad economy, and little but pickled herring to sustain them, Sweden’s nascent labor movement decided to take a chance and strike back.
On August 4, 1909, 300,000 workers—textile weavers, sawmill hands, paper makers—walked out, halting Sweden’s economic engine. It was one of history’s largest general strikes, bleeding corporate profits dry. While workers were striking, they shared communal barrels of pickled herring, putting it on crisp bread, a cheap and filling way to power through the harsh conditions. The strike lasted a month in, as the unions did not have the funds to sustain them long term. This caused major dissatisfaction among membership, major layoffs by Sweden’s corporate conglomerate, and Swedish workers to join more radical unions. Of course, this also lit a fire, with the Swedish working class getting hungry for more, with their hunger for change marinating like fish pickling in a barrel.
Of course, my own hunger was whet by pickled herring. It is so hard to find fresh Herring fillet nearby, so I made do with smoked herring fillets. You can still get that same pickle flavor. You just need to make adjustments to the salt content, and also soak the herring first to get some of the salt out. I have provided recipes to pickle both plain and smoked herring.
Inlagd Sill (Pickled Herring)
Serves: 4
Prep Time: 15 minutes (plus 2-24 hours soaking for fresh, 6-12 hours pickling)
Total Time: ~30 minutes (excluding soaking/pickling)
Ingredients:
Fresh Herring:
4 fresh herring fillets (~½ lb total, skin-on)
½ cup white vinegar (5% acidity)
¼ cup granulated sugar
1 medium yellow or red onion, thinly sliced
1 tsp whole allspice berries
5-6 black peppercorns (optional)
1 bay leaf (optional)
Crisp bread, for serving
Smoked Herring (Alternative):
4 smoked herring fillets (~½ lb total, kippered)
½ cup white vinegar (5% acidity)
¼ cup granulated sugar
1 medium red onion, thinly sliced
1 tsp whole allspice berries
5-6 black peppercorns (optional)
1 bay leaf (optional)
Crisp bread, for serving
Instructions:
Prep Fresh Herring (If Using): Soak fresh fillets in cold water 2-24 hours (fridge, change water once if overnight) to remove blood, firm flesh. Drain, pat dry, slice into 1-inch pieces.
Prep Smoked Herring (If Using): Flake smoked fillets into 1-inch pieces, removing large bones (small ones soften in marinade). No soaking needed.
Layer: In a pint-sized glass jar with a tight lid, layer herring (fresh or smoked) and onion slices.
Make Pickling Liquid: In a small saucepan, combine vinegar, sugar, allspice, and optional peppercorns/bay leaf. Bring to a boil over medium heat, stirring until sugar dissolves (~2 minutes). Cool completely (~20 minutes).
Pickle: Pour cooled liquid over herring and onions, ensuring fish is submerged (add more vinegar if needed). Seal jar, refrigerate 24 hours for fresh herring, 6-12 hours for smoked (24 hours max to avoid soft texture).
Serve: Spoon cold herring onto crisp bread, docker-style—eat from the jar. Keeps refrigerated 1-2 weeks.
Note for Smoked Herring: The texture of the smoked herring will remain more firm than fresh pickled herring. The goal here is to infuse it with the classic Inlagd Sill flavors. You can adjust the sugar and vinegar in the pickling liquid to your preference, considering the inherent saltiness of the smoked herring.
Köttbullar (Swedish Meatballs): Waterloo
Köttbullar, or Swedish meatballs have been eaten for centuries, probably brought from the Ottoman Empire by King Charles XII, and given a Swedish twist. By the 18th century, it became a staple of the Swedish home, enjoyed by all classes and people, and smothered with different sauces (as well as Lingonberry Jam). By now, it has become globally synonymous with Sweden, being served in furniture giant IKEA’s cafeterias (serving over a billion meatballs annually. Less known, however, is the large role these meatballs played in Sweden’s labor movement.
In the aftermath of the 1909 General Strike, Sweden’s labor movement struggled to find its footing. Workers yearned for a greater share but felt unable to claim it. Undeterred by this setback, they sought new ways to build momentum. The established workplace ritual of the fika break emerged as a promising new front for labor activity. Fikas, or coffee breaks, had been ingrained in workplace culture since the 1800s, offering moments for socializing, relaxation, and shared meals. Among the common offerings during these breaks, köttbullar were a frequent sight in workers' canteens nationwide.
Despite the lack of formal legal standing for unions, the fika break became a crucial space for nascent organizing. It was during these informal gatherings that union organizers engaged their colleagues, persuading them to join their ranks. Over plates of köttbullar, grievances were voiced, and the desire for change began to ignite. Fika provided an accessible and informal space for workers to connect, identify shared struggles, and gradually build a unified front. This persistent, low-level organizing, fueled by countless informal meetings during fika, slowly but surely signaled a shift in the workplace power dynamic.
Wildcat strikes became more, and more common after the 1909 General Strike, with organizing happening over plates of meatballs in secret fika sessions. Management, witnessing this growing solidarity and recognizing the potential for more disruptive actions down the line, eventually found themselves compelled to come to the negotiating table, understanding that the desire for a bigger slice of the pie, carefully nurtured over countless fika sessions, was not going to simply disappear.
In 1938, unions got a key concession from employers, and the Swedish government. The Saltsjobaden Agreement was signed, an agreement that formalized the legality of unions in Sweden, and gave them a better leg to stand on. In return, Swedish workers would dial back the wildcat strikes. It is said at talks where the agreement was signed, the corporate leaders didn’t just eat crow, they ate meatballs too. This was a Waterloo moment for the working class, but nothing is ever perfect.
I found Köttbullar to be quite easy and rewarding to whip up. Try it with lingonberry jam. Try it with gravy. Try it with the brown sauce included in this recipe. Try it on a boat. Try it in a moat! But seriously, make sure you try it with lingonberry jam, said Sam I Am.
Köttbullar with Lingonberry Jam (Meatballs)
Serves: 4 (makes ~20-24 meatballs)
Prep Time: 20 minutes
Cook Time: 25 minutes
Total Time: ~45 minutes
Ingredients:
Meatballs:
½ lb ground beef (80/20)
½ lb ground pork
½ cup breadcrumbs (panko or regular)
¼ cup whole milk
1 large egg
1 small yellow onion, finely grated (~¼ cup)
¾ tsp kosher salt
½ tsp ground allspice
¼ tsp black pepper (freshly cracked)
2 tbsp unsalted butter (for frying)
1 tbsp vegetable oil
Creamy Brown Sauce (Gräddsås):
2 tbsp unsalted butter
2 tbsp all-purpose flour
1½ cups beef broth (or beef-chicken mix, low-sodium)
½ cup heavy cream (or milk for lighter)
1 tsp Dijon mustard (optional, for tang)
1 tsp Worcestershire sauce (optional, for depth)
½ tsp kosher salt (to taste)
¼ tsp black pepper
Pinch of dried thyme or parsley (optional)
Serving:
¼ cup lingonberry jam (or cranberry sauce)
Mashed or boiled potatoes (optional)
Parsley, chopped (optional, ~1 tbsp)
Instructions:
Soak Breadcrumbs: In a bowl, soak breadcrumbs in milk for 5-10 minutes until softened.
Mix Meatballs: In a large bowl, combine soaked breadcrumbs, beef, pork, egg, onion, salt, allspice, and pepper. Mix gently—hands or spoon—until just combined (overmixing toughens). Shape into 1-inch balls (~20-24).
Fry Meatballs: Heat butter and oil in a large skillet over medium. Fry meatballs in batches, turning, until golden (~10-12 minutes, 160°F internal). Add butter as needed. Transfer to a plate.
Make Roux: In same skillet, melt butter. Whisk in flour, cook 1-2 minutes until golden.
Make Sauce: Gradually whisk in broth, avoiding lumps. Simmer 5-7 minutes until thickened. Stir in cream, mustard, Worcestershire (if using), salt, pepper, and optional herbs. Heat gently, don’t boil.
Combine: Return meatballs to skillet, coat in sauce, and warm through (~2-3 minutes).
Serve: Plate with sauce, lingonberry jam on the side, and potatoes if using. Sprinkle parsley. Fika-style—spoon jam over bites, pass skillet like 1920s union talks.
Rotmos (Rootmash): Gimme, Gimme, Gimme!
Rotmos, which translates to rootmash, is a Swedish staple dating back to the introduction of the Rutabaga back in the 1600s. It was mashed together with other root vegetables; potatoes, carrots, and others. It often, but not always was served with cured pork. But, this staple was primarily cooked because it used food that could survive the harsh Scandinavian winters. It became particularly important to workers working in freezing, Arctic conditions.
Sweden was one of the few nations to remain truly neutral during World War II. However, the war had a significant impact on the country. Firstly, the blocking of supply lines by British and German naval forces meant that Sweden would place significant shortages. Rationing was introduced. Secondly, the Germans had invaded and occupied Norway, and would buy large amounts of iron ore from Sweden. Production during the war was supercharged. Kiruna Mines, located in the freezing far north of Sweden, was the largest underground iron ore mine in the world.
By 1945, workers at Kiruna were fed up. They were fed up with wartime rationing. They were fed up with the long hours and extreme demands placed upon them. Their wages didn’t keep up with the skyrocketing cost of living. Despite unions becoming formalized, it wasn’t enough to keep management in check. Kiruna Miners, working in the harshest of conditions, would eat their meagre rotmos, far from central union support and the organizing hubs of the cities. They would organize in cramped barracks and plot how they would get more.
Around the time the War in Europe was ending, the Arctic silence was shattered, as all of the largest iron mine in the world’s workers walked out. They demanded better pay, better conditions, but most of all, more dignity. As so many industries were reliant on iron from Kiruna’s mines, this strike affected the whole of Sweden. While they were picketing, their breath almost crystalizing from the cold, vats of rotmos were wheeled up to serve to strikers, the one thing there was abundance of Beyond the Wall.
After a short time, the strike ended in a victory for the miners. They got their demands for better conditions, and a fixed wage system for payment. But, beyond this, it sparked a national conversation about how workers needed more, and how even in the farthest reaches of Sweden, a basic standard of living should be kept. Humble as rotmos is, it helped power workers to a great victory.
It really, truly is hard to believe how good three different root vegetables mashed together tastes, but I can attest, I was pleasantly surprised.
Rotmos (Mashed Turnips, Potatoes, and Carrot)
Serves: 4
Prep Time: 15 minutes
Cook Time: 25 minutes
Total Time: ~40 minutes
Ingredients:
2 medium turnips (~¾ lb), peeled, chopped
2 medium potatoes (~¾ lb), peeled, chopped
1 medium carrot (~¼ lb), peeled, chopped
1 tsp kosher salt (for boiling)
2-4 tbsp unsalted butter
2-3 tbsp milk or cream (optional, for smoothness)
Bacon bits (optional, ~2 tbsp, for serving)
Salt and black pepper, to taste
Instructions:
Boil Vegetables: In a large pot, combine turnips, potatoes, and carrot. Cover with cold water, add 1 tsp salt. Bring to a boil, cook until tender (~20-25 minutes, easily pierced with a fork).
Drain: Drain vegetables well, return to pot.
Mash: Mash with a potato masher or fork until smooth.
Season: Stir in butter and optional milk/cream until melted. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
Serve: Serve hot, topped with bacon bits if using, miner-style—straight from the pot.
Ärtsoppa (Yellow Pea Soup): Money, Money, Money
Ärtsoppa is eaten on Thursdays, a tradition in Sweden thought to originate from the pre-reformation practice of fasting on Fridays. But this yellow pea soup has been a simple, sustaining, and foundational dish in Sweden since at least the 13th century, a staple enjoyed by rich and poor alike. The very foundational nature of this dish made it a potent image in the pitch for the Folkhemmet, or people’s home.
This was the core concept behind the ambitious social democratic reforms introduced in the mid-20th century, envisioning Sweden as a 'home' where the state ensured the well-being and security of all its citizens. Just as ärtsoppa provided basic nourishment for everyone, the Folkhemmet aimed to create a social safety net accessible to all. This humble soup was used in posters, flyers, and other imagery as a centerpiece of what the labor-oriented Social Democrats were looking to do.
However, the idealized vision represented by the ubiquitous ärtsoppa faced stark realities, as evidenced by the recent Kiruna strike. This strike exposed the stark realities of hardship and inequality that persisted even as Sweden navigated the end of World War II. It served as a powerful reminder that the promise of a better future for all Swedes, a cornerstone of the burgeoning Social Democratic vision, had yet to be fully realized.
The Social Democrats, in power for over a decade, seized this moment to solidify their vision of the Folkhemmet. Culminating in 1948, this push resulted in landmark child welfare legislation. This legislation marked a significant expansion of the state's responsibility for the well-being of children, encompassing areas like financial support for families (through child allowances), improved healthcare access for children, and enhanced social services aimed at protecting vulnerable youth.
The 1948 child welfare legislation can be seen, in part, as a direct response to the societal demands for greater security and equity that were brought into sharp focus by labor strikes. It represented a concrete step towards building the "people's home," ensuring that the next generation would be raised with greater security and opportunity, a vision that gained considerable traction in the wake of workers’ demands for a better life. However, the pursuit of greater equity and well-being for workers continues in Sweden and beyond.
I found ärtsoppa to be hearty, warm, and filling. I don’t really have much to add, other than mustard absolutely elevating the dish.
Ärtsoppa (Yellow Pea Soup)
Serves: 6
Prep Time: 15 minutes (plus overnight soaking)
Cook Time: 2 hours
Total Time: ~2 hours 15 minutes (excluding soaking)
Ingredients:
1 cup dried yellow split peas
1 smoked pork hock (~1-1½ lbs)
1 medium yellow onion, roughly chopped
6 cups water or broth (chicken or vegetable)
1 tsp kosher salt (to taste)
½ tsp dried marjoram or thyme (optional)
Mustard, for serving (optional)
Instructions:
Soak Peas: Rinse split peas, soak in cold water overnight (8-12 hours). Drain.
Simmer Soup: In a large pot, combine soaked peas, pork hock, onion, and water/broth. Bring to a boil, skim foam, then reduce to low. Cover, simmer ~2 hours, stirring occasionally, until peas break down and soup thickens.
Shred Pork: Remove pork hock, cool slightly. Shred meat, discard skin and bone.
Combine: Return shredded pork to soup, stir.
Season: Add salt and optional marjoram/thyme to taste.
Serve: Serve hot in cups or bowls, with mustard on the side if using
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