Germany: Noodles, Kraut, and a Wall’s Sour End

Germany contains multitudes. From the grinding industrial nightclubs and Brandenburg Gate of the North to the noisy beer halls and fairytale castles of the South, Germany is an all-encompassing sort of place. When you look at its history—which is no fairytale—you can see that it contains multitudes as well. From some of the darkest moments in human history to some of the brightest sparks of hope, the history of Deutschland is only summed up with one word: complicated.

The food reflects this complexity too. German cuisine is deeply regional. With stark differences between North and South, East and West, rural and urban. But, the one thread that unites it all is that this was food which was born of survival and sustenance through some of the harshest times in Europe’s history. Preserving bits of cabbage to make the harvest last through the winter, scraping scraps of dough off a cutting board to make some noodles, monks twisting dough in their abbeys, some of the most well known German food comes from thrift.

Today we’ll be looking at how some of the most famous German dishes have helped propel the course of history, and how it powered revolutions, resistance, and reunions. How Europe’s longest standing comfort food fed peasants who boldly said enough is enough, how sauerkraut used as war rations helped spark the end of the Second Reich, how bakers used pretzels to mask their secret messages meant to bring down the Third Reich in the dead of night, and how Rotkohl, a cabbage dish universally enjoyed throughout Germany highlighted the bittersweet reunion of a divided people.

Grab a beer stein and start pouring your Hefeweizen, because it is time to feast.

Käsespätzle: Noodles of Rebellion

Spätzle is one of Europe’s longest enduring comfort foods. First prepared in the medieval kitchens of the southern region of Swabia, these simple dumplings made from flour and eggs, often cut into the shape of irregular noodles or droplets have continued to bring families around the dinner table several hundreds of years later, with little addition (except maybe the delicious upgrade of cheese). It has long been a delicious staple the poorest of the poor could afford, and make on their own, which they certainly did, even during the toughest of times.

Of course the toughest of times for a High Medieval era peasant was incomprehensibly tough. To understand why, in 1524, a peasant rebellion swept across the Holy Roman Empire, you have to consider the backdrop of the era’s volatile trifecta: the grinding machinery of feudalism, the explosive spark of the Reformation, and the suffocating weight of the medieval social order. Germany as we know it did not exist, well at least not in name. Germany was a patchwork of petty fiefdoms and princedoms known as “The Holy Roman Empire”, in which an “emperor” was elected from among the princes, a title which for most of its history was in name only. As the political philosopher Voltaire once remarked, the Holy Roman Empire was not holy, nor Roman, nor really an empire. In the early 1500s, the back and forth nature of these fiefdoms led to massive changes for the serfs who were tied to the land. What was once common land that serfs not only were expected to work, but also shared an ownership of (along with all people of the realm), came under direct ownership of the Lord in command of the realm. Whereas before, peasants were expected to provide a yield of crops to the lord and the realm, they also could take for themselves, to freely make such staples such as spätzle. The peasant’s land was now fully in control of the lord, and they would be heavily taxed on hunting, fishing, chopping wood, even marriage! Their crops would be trampled on by the lords knights playing games, and they could do nothing about it. When a peasant died, the lord was entitled to take the peasants best things. You get the idea. Imagine some wealthy noble who already has everything squeezing you dry for everything you have! I’m sure you can’t imagine such a world 😉.

Supporting this corrupt class system at its hilt was the Catholic church, who gave the nobility a divine stamp of approval. As you may know, this authority was challenged by a German priest named Martin Luther, whose brutal interrogation of the rotten core at the center of the medieval Church would spark the period known as the Reformation. One of his contemporaries, another priest named Thomas Müntzer, would be inspired by Luther to take it a step further. After meeting Luther, Müntzer would become a true believer in the cause, and started fanning the flames of the Reformation to not just attack the Church’s teachings, but the institutions themselves, doing so in a way that many of Luther’s followers were alarmed by. He would speak directly to the peasant’s gripes, stating “The people will be free and God alone will be their lord” and “all property should be held in common”. He would speak of grain silos filled with a bountiful harvest being sent to the Church and the lords who owned the peasant’s lands while the peasants were subsisting on acorns and scraps of dough boiled to make spätzle.

By the time Müntzer’s tour of the Holy Roman Empire brought him to Southwestern Germany, the land of Swabia and home of spätzle, peasants had already started taking his words to heart, and begun arming themselves and moving to overthrow the lords. He supported the rebels with a full-throated defense in word and deed, but other Reformation figures, such as Martin Luther, would call the rebellion godless and urge the nobles to swiftly put the peasant rebellion down like dogs.

The flames of rebellion engulf 300,000 peasant souls, who would engage in open revolt against the Lords of the Holy Roman Empire. There were stories of peasants overwhelming castles such as that at Weinsburg, and massacring the aristocrats that would spread throughout the nobility, horrifying them and spurring them to action. It turns out the Holy Roman Empire COULD be united, when aristocratic interests were in danger. A league of southern nobles called “The Swabian League” would put brutally put down the Peasant Rebellion, with 100,000 rebels being put to the sword by a military force of about 5,000. Thomas Müntzer would continue traveling around Germany, finally finding a small hamlet that would allow him to have a pulpit, now labeled as a crank and rabble rouser. The Great Peasants’ War would remain Europe’s largest open rebellion until 250 years later with the French Revolution. Spätzle would remain a cheap staple for Swabian peasants who were dreaming of more.

In our fulfillment of that dream, when we make our own spätzle, we are going to add a nice creamy cheese topping, making it “käsespätzle”. The first bite of cheese cloaked noodles would probably make a 1500s peasant weep with joy. But, be careful that when you are making it, that you go in batches. If you do too much dough at once, it will glob together, which is something I faced the first time I tried making this. Use either a “spätzle plane”, the holes of a strainer, or slice off pieces of dough into the boiling water.

Recipe: Käsespätzle

Serves: 4-6

Prep Time: 20 minutes

Cook Time: 25 minutes

Rest Time: 15-30 minutes

Ingredients

For the Spätzle:

2½ cups all-purpose flour (or mix with semolina for better texture)
4 large eggs
¾ cup lukewarm water or milk (milk adds richness)
½ teaspoon salt
Pinch of freshly grated nutmeg (optional, for flavor)

For the Cheese Sauce & Topping:

1 tablespoon butter
1 large onion, thinly sliced
2 cups grated Emmental cheese (or mix with Gruyère for complexity)
¼ cup heavy cream or milk (optional, for smoother sauce)
Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
Chopped fresh parsley or chives (optional, for garnish)

Instructions

Prepare the Dough: In a large bowl, whisk together flour, salt, and nutmeg (if using). In a separate bowl, lightly whisk eggs and water (or milk). Gradually combine wet and dry ingredients, stirring until a thick, sticky batter forms. Beat vigorously with a wooden spoon or whisk for 1-2 minutes until smooth and small bubbles appear. Let rest 15-30 minutes to relax the gluten for tender spätzle.
Cook the Spätzle: Bring a large pot of salted water to a rolling boil, then reduce to a steady simmer. Working in batches (to avoid clumping—trust me, I learned this the hard way):

Spätzle Plane: Pour batter into the hopper, slide back and forth to drop noodles into the water.
Strainer Method: Push batter through a strainer’s holes with a spatula.
Cutting Board: Spread batter on a wet board, slice thin strips into the pot with a wet knife.
Cook until spätzle float (2-3 minutes). Scoop out with a slotted spoon, rinse briefly in cold water to stop cooking, then drain well.

Caramelize the Onions: Melt butter in a skillet over medium heat. Add sliced onion and cook low and slow (15-20 minutes) until golden and caramelized. Set aside.
Assemble: Preheat oven to 375°F (190°C). In an oven-safe dish, layer half the cooked spätzle, sprinkle with half the cheese and a grind of pepper. Repeat with remaining spätzle and cheese. Drizzle with cream or milk (if using) for extra richness. Top with caramelized onions.
Bake: Bake 15-20 minutes until cheese melts, bubbles, and browns lightly on top.
Serve: Garnish with parsley or chives (if desired) and serve hot.

Notes

Batch Tip: Don’t overload the pot—too much dough globs together (my first batch was a mess).
Tools: A spätzle plane’s ideal, but a strainer or cutting board works.
Cheese: Emmental’s nutty, Gruyère adds depth—mix if you’re feeling fancy.

Sauerkraut mit Bratwurst: Sour as the Sea

Sauerkraut is so synonymous with Germany that the very name “Krauts” has been slung at the German people for over a century. This fermented, sour cabbage has been a foodstuff since early recorded history and used in many parts of the world. It probably came to Europe through Central Asian trade routes from China, and dug its roots deepest in Germany. It particularly became a great way to preserve food during harsh winters when refrigeration didn’t exist and nothing grew. Its ability to last for extended periods, becoming more fermented rather than spoiling, made it the perfect thing to stuff barrels full of and put on ships for long journeys.

It probably had been fermenting for a while when sailors in the Imperial German navy had received word that World War I had been lost on October 5th, 1918. This was a gut punch to the officers’ dreams of glory, many of whom were of noble birth, and who had been fed a steady diet of propaganda that the Allied Powers were on the run and ready to fold. The German Empire had been formed out of the ruins of the Holy Roman Empire, centralized and nationalistic where the Holy Roman Empire had been scattered and provincial. Every captain wanted to strike the fatal blow on the British Empire, and some were determined to ignore this news, perhaps even with delusions of winning this war themselves. Of course the rank and file sailors were ready to go home, and towards the end of the war had been forming secret networks to communicate with the anti-war socialist Independent Social Democratic Party mainland to complain about rations and the hopelessness of the war effort. One can only eat handfuls of sauerkraut for so long before you start to ask for something more.

Admiral Reinhard Scheer, hellbent on naval honor, blamed liberal reformers for the Kaiser’s surrender and ordered a suicide run near Schleswig-Holstein. The sailors’ rage, fermenting with the kraut, boiled over. As sauerkraut continued to ferment on the decks, the fermented rage of the sailors reached a boiling point. They did not want to put their lives on the line to fight a hopeless cause that had already been negotiated to an end. Several sailors openly mutinied on several of the Great Northern Fleets’ ships, took control of those ships, and pointed their cannons at the others. The mutineers stood down, and were arrested.

Thought to get the mutiny under control, several of the ships went into port in the Northern city of Kiel to put the mutineers in prison. However, most of the sailors’ sympathies lie with the mutineers, and they started demanding the release of their fellow sailors. The sailors also started meeting with local socialist labor leaders, who started demonstrating as well.

In between munching on wartime rations of sauerkraut, socialists and sailors started plotting a series of demands, and started charting a way forward. The Imperial government responded by shutting down the union house, which was like throwing gasoline on a raging fire. The workers and sailors moved to take over parts of Kiel’s government outright. On November 3, the city of Kiel was completely taken over by mutinous sailors and socialist unionists. They had a list of demands that included the immediate democratization of Germany, release of political prisoners, the prevention of any more attacks, and the fastest end of the war possible. Sailors from Kiel spread throughout all of Germany’s major cities and unionist workers’ councils echoed the calls. By November 11th, Kaiser Wilhelm II and all the princes of Germany had abdicated; the Weimar Republic was born. Sauerkraut could be enjoyed with the warm fulfilling notes of peace rather than as a cold form of wartime nourishment.

Like the soldiers on the cold Northern Sea, you too can easily make sauerkraut in your own home. Make sure when keeping it fermenting, you keep the cabbage pushed below the liquid. I use one large cabbage leaf, with a shotglass on top to push everything down sealed inside the jar. Also make sure you let some air out every once in a while. This can be enjoyed cold or hot. I heated mine up with some sliced bratwurst.

Recipe: Sauerkraut (German Fermented Cabbage)

Yields: Variable (large batch)

Prep Time: 20 minutes

Fermentation Time: 2-4 weeks

Ingredients

2 lbs (1 medium-large) firm white or green cabbage
2 tbsp non-iodized salt (iodine inhibits fermentation)
1 tsp caraway seeds (optional, traditional)
Optional flavorings: 1-2 crushed garlic cloves, a few juniper berries, 1 bay leaf

Instructions

Prepare the Cabbage: Remove outer leaves, rinse cabbage, and pat dry. Halve through the core, then thinly shred with a knife or mandoline. Discard the hard core.
Salt and Massage: In a large bowl, sprinkle salt (and caraway seeds, if using) over shredded cabbage. Massage with hands for 5-10 minutes until liquid pools at the bottom—brine’s key for fermentation.
Pack the Jar: Transfer cabbage and brine to a clean, wide-mouth glass jar. Pack tightly, ensuring cabbage is submerged. Add a little boiled, cooled salted water if needed. Use a weight (e.g., fermentation weight or small jar) to keep it under brine. I use a big cabbage leaf and a shotglass to push it down.
Ferment: Cover loosely (gases need to escape) and store in a cool, dark spot (65-75°F / 18-24°C). Warmer speeds it up.
Monitor and Burp: Check daily—bubbles mean it’s working. “Burp” the jar by loosening the lid to release gas, or it might pop. Do this every day or two.
Taste and Test: After 1 week, taste it. Let it sour 2-4 weeks total, depending on your vibe.
Store: When it’s right, seal tight and refrigerate—lasts months.

Notes

Non-iodized salt’s a must—iodine kills the ferment.
Keep cabbage submerged to dodge mold.
Burping’s clutch—don’t skip it.
Taste often—sourness builds over time.

Recipe: Homemade Sauerkraut Broth with Sliced Bratwurst

Serves: 4-6

Prep Time: 10 minutes

Cook Time: 25-35 minutes

Ingredients

4 cups homemade sauerkraut (with its liquid)
2-4 cups water or broth (vegetable, chicken, or pork—your call)
1 tbsp olive oil or butter (optional, for aromatics)
1 medium onion, chopped (optional)
2 cloves garlic, minced (optional)
1 tsp caraway seeds (optional, classic)
1 bay leaf (optional)
4-6 bratwurst sausages (fresh)
Salt and black pepper, to taste
Fresh parsley or chives, chopped (optional garnish)
Mustard, for serving (optional)

Instructions

Prepare the Bratwurst:

Option 1 (Pre-Cook): Heat a skillet with oil or butter over medium. Cook bratwurst 15-20 minutes, turning till browned and cooked through. Slice into rounds.
Option 2 (In Broth): Add raw or lightly browned brats to broth later—cooks in 15-20 minutes, infuses flavor. Slice after.

Sauté Aromatics (Optional): In a saucepan or Dutch oven, heat oil or butter over medium. Cook onion 5 minutes till soft, add garlic 1 minute till fragrant—don’t burn it.
Add Sauerkraut and Liquid: Stir in sauerkraut with its liquid. Add 2 cups broth or water—adjust later if you want it thinner.
Add Spices (Optional): Mix in caraway seeds and bay leaf.
Simmer the Broth: Bring to a gentle simmer. Reduce to low, cover, and cook 15-20 minutes for flavors to meld. Taste—adjust with salt and pepper (kraut’s salty, so go light). Remove bay leaf.
Add Bratwurst: Stir in sliced pre-cooked brats for 5-10 minutes to heat through. If cooking raw in broth, add now and simmer 15-20 minutes, then slice.
Serve: Ladle hot broth and brats into bowls. Garnish with parsley or chives if using. Serve with mustard—hot and steamy.

Notes

Broth’s richer than water—sailors didn’t get it, but you should.
Pre-cooking brats adds char; broth-cooking boosts flavor—your pick.
Start with 2 cups liquid, add more if it’s too thick.

Laugenbrezels mit Senf: Twisted Defiance

Pretzels are iconic in German cuisine and as a symbol of German culture on the whole. One popular story is that an Italian monk created the treat to inspire his students, and it was meant to look like two hands praying. However, it is more likely that it was designed the way it was simply to allow for mass production and storage. The holes allowed them to be hung several at a time on hooks around the bakery.

Whether inspired by prayer or practicality, the design has become iconic, and has been used as a symbol to signify bakeries around Central Europe for centuries. Much like a striped pole signifies a barber shop, a twisted pretzel sign signifies a bakery.

Bakeries are one of these symbols of classic German life that have weathered several intense changes over the years. “Germanness” became a flashpoint during the turbulent years of the Weimar Republic, with the faction of folks that wanted to keep fighting the British we talked about in the sauerkraut section becoming a full on reactionary movement. The Allied Powers of the UK, France, and the US forced the new Weimar German Republic to take on the full brunt of the cost of World War I both financially and in terms of taking the blame. As a result, Germany erupted into a period of hyperinflation, instability, and depression. Many who were ardent nationalists (especially officers) during World War I felt deep in their heart that victory, and honor, were snatched away from them by socialists, communists, liberal politicians, capitulating members of the monarchy, capitalists who were profiteering from the end of the war, and a litany of other groups. They would come to see “international Jewry” at the center of this vast conspiracy that influenced these other groups as a means to destroy the German nation, and that the chaos unfolding was purposeful.

You can probably see where this is going. A populist, nationalist group called the “German Workers’ Party” emerged as a political force to push for full-throated conspiratory nationalism and anti-Semitism. A young and charismatic recruit named Adolf Hitler would attempt to soak up some of the local socialist energies amongst the working class, as the SDP being in government meant they would grab some blame, and add the title “National Socialist” to the German Workers’ Party. This, of course, was merely an adoption of nomenclature. They in no way believed in class liberation or were of the left. They wanted a regimented German society, where all were in their proper place. They saw the German nation as an organic entity, and that class antagonisms would need to be destroyed in order for it to survive, and they especially saw the removal of Jews, whom they believed to be the puppetmasters behind everything to be of paramount importance. Most tragically for the world, desperation builds support for whacky politics, especially when people’s needs aren’t being met, and these Nazis would get their chance.

The Nazi government, once winning power, would quickly move to consolidate it, and move towards a society free of class antagonisms, and the “rebirth of the German people”. This meant “civil service reform” which translated to firing liberals and Jews from government jobs and replacing them with Nazi supporters. This meant trying to “do away with degeneracy”, such as shutting down pro-LGBT cabaret clubs, and the worlds’ first sexology clinic, the “Institute for Sexual Science”, which was crucial to early research and advocacy for transgender people. This meant the abolition of the right to strike and labor unions. This meant, of course, the harassment and shut down of Jewish owned businesses, and eventually the removal of the Jewish people. One institution that emerged unscathed without suspicion were those of neighborhood bakeries, as few businesses more exuded Germanness than those small buildings with the pretzel signs that made bread for the neighborhood.

As dissidents vanished and the Holocaust’s horrors unfolded, resistance flickered. The Red Orchestra, communist-rooted, smuggled intel to allies. The White Rose, liberal students, scattered anti-Nazi leaflets. As bakeries were untouched, essential, and left little reason for suspicion, many bakers with liberal and left wing sympathies allowed themselves to become essential to the cause.

Nighttime bread deliveries would provide cover for messages between resistance networks, as no-one would have reason to suspect bread was nefarious. Of course, for the few times that the patrolling soldiers got intrigued with the merchandise, some bakers came up with a genius solution. The folds of a pretzel were the ideal place to hide messages, whether it was troop movements or merely messages from different resistance networks checking in. One slip up meant death of course, so the information on anti-Nazi resistance is scarce, and many of it only came to light several decades after the war. But regardless, these bakers were unsung heroes, and their vessel of choice, the pretzel, will always exude Germanness more than any Nazi officer ever would.

My pretzels weren’t made in secrecy, but they were delicious nonetheless. I actually had a misfire at first. I didn’t let them soak in the baking soda for long enough. I only dipped them. The best thing to do is to let them float for 30 seconds a side, and use a slotted spook or spider strainer to flip them and grab them from the baking soda.

Recipe: Laugenbrezels

Serves: 8-10 (makes 8-10 pretzels)

Prep Time: 30 minutes

Cook Time: 12-15 minutes

Rest Time: 1-1.5 hours

Ingredients

For the Dough:

4 1/2 cups all-purpose flour (bread flour can also be used for a chewier texture)
1 tablespoon active dry yeast
1 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon granulated sugar
1 1/2 cups lukewarm water
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted

For the Baking Soda Bath:

1/2 cup baking soda
9 cups water

For Baking and Topping:

1 large egg, beaten with 1 tablespoon water (egg wash)
Coarse pretzel salt

Instructions

Make the Dough: In a large bowl or the bowl of a stand mixer, whisk together the flour, yeast, salt, and sugar. Add the lukewarm water and melted butter. Mix until a shaggy dough forms.
Knead the Dough: Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface and knead for 6-8 minutes, or use a stand mixer with a dough hook for 4-5 minutes, until the dough is smooth and elastic.
First Rise: Place the dough in a lightly oiled bowl, turning to coat. Cover with plastic wrap and let rise in a warm place for 1-1.5 hours, or until doubled in size.
Shape the Pretzels: Punch down the dough and divide it into 8-10 equal pieces. Roll each piece into a long rope, about 20-24 inches long. To shape a pretzel, form a U-shape with the rope. Twist the ends over each other once or twice, then bring the ends down and press them onto the bottom of the U.
Prepare the Baking Soda Bath: In a large pot, bring the water and baking soda to a rolling boil.
Dip the Pretzels: Carefully drop each pretzel into the boiling baking soda water for about 30 seconds. Remove them with a slotted spoon and place them on a parchment-lined baking sheet.
Preheat Oven: Preheat your oven to 425°F (220°C).
Egg Wash and Salt: Brush the tops of the dipped pretzels with the egg wash. Sprinkle generously with coarse pretzel salt.
Bake: Bake for 12-15 minutes, or until the pretzels are a deep golden brown.
Cool: Let the pretzels cool slightly on the baking sheet before serving.

Notes

The lye (or baking soda) bath is what gives pretzels their characteristic chewy crust and dark color.
Don’t over-bake the pretzels, or they will become hard.

Recipe: Bavarian Sweet Mustard (Süßer Senf)

Yields: Approximately 1 cup

Prep Time: 10 minutes

Cook Time: None

Rest Time: At least 2 hours (preferably overnight)

Ingredients

1/4 cup yellow mustard seeds
1/4 cup brown mustard seeds
1/4 cup mustard powder (preferably Colman’s or similar)
1/4 cup granulated sugar
1/4 cup packed light brown sugar
1/4 cup apple cider vinegar
2-3 tablespoons Weissbier (adjust as needed for consistency)
1/2 teaspoon salt
Optional: A tiny pinch (less than 1/8 teaspoon) of ground cloves

Instructions

Combine Dry Ingredients: In a medium bowl, whisk together the yellow mustard seeds, brown mustard seeds, mustard powder, granulated sugar, brown sugar, and the optional ground cloves (if using).
Add Liquids: Pour in the apple cider vinegar and 2 tablespoons of Weissbier. Stir well to combine all the ingredients into a thick paste.
Add Salt: Stir in the salt.
Rest: Cover the bowl tightly with plastic wrap and let it sit at room temperature for at least 2 hours, or preferably overnight. This allows the mustard seeds to soften and the flavors to meld. The mixture will thicken further as it rests.
Adjust Consistency: After resting, check the consistency of the mustard. If it’s too thick for your liking, add the remaining tablespoon of Weissbier (or a little more if needed), a teaspoon at a time, stirring well until you reach your desired consistency. Keep in mind that the mustard will thicken slightly more in the refrigerator.
Blend for Smoothness (Optional): For a smoother mustard, you can carefully transfer the mixture to a blender or use an immersion blender and pulse a few times. Be cautious not to over-blend.
Taste and Adjust: Taste the mustard and adjust the sweetness or saltiness to your preference.
Store: Transfer the finished Bavarian sweet mustard to an airtight jar and store it in the refrigerator. The flavors will continue to develop over the first few days.

Notes

This mustard is characterized by its sweetness and relatively mild flavor, often achieved through the use of dark beer and/or sugar.

Rotkohl: Bittersweet Reunion

Rotkohl, like sauerkraut, is made from cabbage. However, unlike sauerkraut, it is generally sweeter or tangier and is made from red cabbage. It has been made throughout Germany since at least the 16th century. Of note, the taste wildly changes from region to region. Of course, that culinary divide was exasperated by the physical divide that engulfed Germany following World War II.

Following World War II, Germany was divided into several different “Occupation Zones”, with the East being taken by the Soviet Union, and the west being a combination of US, UK and France. World War II strife would give way to the slow burn of the Cold War. The three Western Zones would combine to form the “Federal Republic of Germany”, and the Eastern Zone would become the “German Democratic Republic”. These two different governments would ensure that Germany would become a flashpoint, both literally and metaphorically in the international standoff between capitalism and communism that would follow. West Germany would remain aligned with Western economic and political institutions, ensuring that they would see the benefit of such programs as The Marshall Plan, leading to the “Wirtschaftswunder” or ‘economic miracle’ that would ensure its rapid economic growth in the 50s and 60s. West Germany had the benefit of being rebuilt by the West, as well as unfettered access to Germany’s traditional markets in the West. By contrast, East Germany was forced to pay substantial war reparations to the Soviet Union in the form of the dismantling of its industrial base and draining of the coffers. It also had access to a much smaller market due to economic boycott by the West and had trade opportunities only with the Soviet-aligned COMECON trade system of Eastern Europe. Its economic revitalization was much slower. In 1961, the Berlin Wall rose, adding a physical divide to the metaphorical one.

Rotkohl’s regional divides were supercharged by the Cold War. In the West, the abundance meant that Rotkohl was sweet, braised with apples and sugar and apple cider vinegar. In the East, shortages meant it was braised with chicken broth and red wine vinegar. It took on a much more savory taste. This would persist throughout the Cold War.

Towards the end of the 80s, like in most of the world, cracks in the Soviet order would start to emerge. Soviet-aligned Hungary opened its borders to Western-Aligned Austria, and hundreds of thousands of East Germans would travel to Hungary to get supplies from the West. Czechoslovakia did the same, but the travel of Easterners to the West became too much for either government to handle. Seeing such abundance, East Germans started clamoring for reunion, with protests rocking Leipzig, Dresden, and Berlin. In 1989, the Berlin Wall fell, allowing free movement across the border, and by early 1990, the country was reunited. Of course, East Germans used to savory rotkohl reportedly spit it out when they first tried it in West Germany. West Germans puckered up when they were given a taste of the meaty rotkohl of East Germany. Reunion would not be easy.

East Germans were promised abundance with the failing of the Soviet system and adoption of capitalism. However, that promised was ripped apart by globalization. By 2000, the unemployment rate in East Germany was 18%, more than double that of the West, with East German factories once again being gutted, this time for corporate balance sheets rather than reparations. In the West, the opening of new local markets promised a supercharged economy and wealth. However, the only thing that seemed to be supercharged was wealth inequality, with most new jobs being “low income” while the “low skilled” share of the workforce only decreased. Of course, most who see this historical event see people jubilantly destroying a wall and throngs of cheering crowds. Like so much of this world we live in, the reality is more complicated than the history that is presented.

Now what of the rotkohl? It seems that most places have tended to serve a synthesis of the two styles, with some preferring it sweeter and others more savory. But, at the end of the day, it remains a staple for the nation of Germany, an edible representation of common ground. I made it both ways, but I must say I slightly prefer the East German way.

Recipe: Rotkohl (German Braised Red Cabbage) - West German Style

Serves: 6-8

Prep Time: 15 minutes

Cook Time: 1-1.5 hours

Ingredients

1 large red cabbage (about 2 lbs), finely shredded
1 tbsp butter or oil
1 large onion, thinly sliced
2 medium apples (Honeycrisp or Braeburn), peeled, cored, chopped
2 tbsp brown sugar (adjust to taste)
¼ cup red wine vinegar (or apple cider vinegar)
½ cup red wine or apple juice (optional, adds depth)
1 tsp whole cloves (or ¼ tsp ground cloves)
1 bay leaf
Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Instructions

Sauté Aromatics: In a large, heavy-bottomed pot or Dutch oven, melt butter over medium heat. Add onion; sauté 5-7 minutes till soft, translucent.
Add Cabbage and Apples: Stir in cabbage and apples; mix well.
Add Sweeteners and Liquids: Sprinkle in brown sugar. Pour in vinegar and wine (or juice, if using). Add cloves and bay leaf.
Simmer: Bring to a simmer, reduce to low, cover, and cook 1-1.5 hours, stirring occasionally, till cabbage is tender. Add a splash of water if dry.
Adjust Seasoning: Remove bay leaf and whole cloves (if used). Taste; adjust with salt, pepper, sugar, or vinegar for sweet-sour balance.
Serve: Serve warm as a side. Tastes better day two.

Notes

Fine shreds cook even—don’t skimp on slicing.
Red wine adds West’s richness; juice keeps it light.
Adjust sugar for Bavaria’s sweet tooth—mine’s medium.

Recipe: Rotkohl (German Braised Red Cabbage) - East German Style

Serves: 6-8

Prep Time: 15 minutes

Cook Time: 1-1.5 hours

Ingredients

1 large red cabbage (about 2 lbs), finely shredded
1 tbsp butter or oil
1 large onion, thinly sliced
¼ cup red wine vinegar (or cider vinegar)
1 tsp caraway seeds
½ cup vegetable or chicken broth (optional, to prevent sticking)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Instructions

Sauté Onion: In a large, heavy-bottomed pot or Dutch oven, melt butter over medium heat. Add onion; sauté 5-7 minutes till soft, translucent.
Add Cabbage and Flavorings: Stir in cabbage and caraway seeds; mix well.
Add Vinegar and Broth: Pour in vinegar and broth (if using). Season with salt and pepper.
Simmer: Bring to a simmer, reduce to low, cover, and cook 1-1.5 hours, stirring occasionally, till tender. Add a splash of broth or water if dry.
Adjust Seasoning: Taste; adjust with salt, pepper, or vinegar for tangy depth.
Serve: Serve warm as a side. Savory’s the East’s soul.

Notes

Caraway gives East’s earthy flavor—don’t overdo it.
Broth adds meaty depth; water’s fine for thrift.
Freezes like a champ!

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Tom's Proletarian Kitchen