From the Sea and the Field: Belgian Food of Two Tongues

 





Among Europe’s nation-states, Belgium is an anomaly. Rather than forming around a shared linguistic or cultural identity, Belgium evolved from a region repeatedly passed between European royal families and imperial states before finally gaining independence. This history earned it the nickname 'The Battlefield of Europe'. Rather than having a single national language, Belgium is divided into two main linguistic regions, with a much smaller third one, speaking French, Dutch, and a little German. Perhaps it is this multicultural, bilingual reality that has led the state to take the front seat in the formation of a more united Europe, and several of the major EU institutions are headquartered in Belgium.


Belgium has a long-standing history of industry, actually being the first country to undergo the industrial revolution in continental Europe, and becoming one of the three most industrialized countries in the world by the early 1900s, with steel based in the south and textiles in the north. It has one of the highest percentages of trade union membership in the world, with only the Scandinavian countries boasting higher numbers. Before this, Belgium was traditionally an agricultural region, particularly in the Dutch-speaking northern territory of Flanders.. This boom led to a rapid urbanization in the middle of the 1800s, and a changing food culture to match. Workers needed quick affordable meals, and thus a fast food culture emerged.



Belgium’s national dish is moules-frites, mussels and fries. This pairing became popular in industrial centers due to the cheap cost and availability of fresh seafood, and potatoes, which were plentiful and easy to grow. It provided a quick and affordable meal, one that entire restaurants continue to be built around, with fries being a national point of pride for Belgium, and the diverse array of fry sauces being unparalleled.

For my own exploration of Belgian food, I made moules-frites, several of my own fry sauces, and a popular Belgian vegetable dish, braised endives.


Endives: Revolutionary Roots



In 1830, a farmer named Jan Lammers had stored some chicory roots in his cellar in Brussels to dry out to make coffee (a common practice then). However, duty called, and he left to fight in the Belgian Revolution against the Netherlands. After several months, he returned to find a leafy growth growing out of the roots he had left in his cellar, and much like a new nation was born, so was a newly discovered vegetable. He found that this vegetable, now termed a Belgian endive, was delicious. It soon became commercially produced in Belgium and beyond, eventually growing into a staple and the country’s most popular vegetable. It is served in salads, braised, or au gratin, submerged in cheese with cuts of ham. For my own part, I braised it, cooking it in a sauce of butter, oil, vegetable broth, and a common Belgian beer, Stella Artois.

Braised Belgian Endives

Ingredients

  • 4 Belgian endives, halved lengthwise

  • 5 tablespoons butter

  • 1 tablespoon olive oil

  • ½ cup vegetable or chicken broth

  • ¼ cup Stella Artois (or another Belgian beer)

  • 1 ½ teaspoons sugar

  • Salt and pepper, to taste

  • Optional: 1 teaspoon lemon juice or a pinch of nutmeg

Instructions

  1. Sear the Endives

    • In a large skillet, heat the butter and olive oil over medium heat.

    • Place the endives cut-side down and cook for 3–4 minutes until golden brown.

  2. Braise

    • Add the broth, Stella Artois, sugar, salt, and pepper to the skillet.

    • Cover and simmer for 15–20 minutes, until the endives are tender.

  3. Finish

    • Remove the lid and let the liquid reduce for a few more minutes.

    • Stir in lemon juice or a pinch of nutmeg, if using.

Moules: Fisherman’s Gold

In the cold waters of the North Sea, mussels are plentiful. So plentiful, in fact, that in Belgium mussels became a cheaper alternative to fish in working-class households, especially during the winter months. They are often steamed with shallots, butter, wine, beer, garlic, and a variety of other aromatics in a single pot, from which they are then served. The lid of the pot also serves as a smaller vessel to collect discarded shells. The iconic moules-frites pairing evolved in the mid-1800s and became something akin to a national dish, being served as a cheap to-go food.

For my own part, I steamed the mussels in a broth of olive oil, shallots, garlic, Belgian beer (Stella Artois), Dijon mustard, and butter. I then added heavy cream and parsley at the end. I happened to use a leftover baguette (from last week’s French dishes) to sop up the remaining broth, and I suggest you do the same. Getting a dedicated mussel pot is also inexpensive and highly recommended. I saved the mussel shells for something special for my Spanish dishes next week. ;)

Belgian Steamed Mussels

Ingredients:

  • 2 pounds fresh mussels, scrubbed and debearded

  • 2 tablespoons olive oil

  • 2 shallots, finely chopped

  • 3-4 cloves garlic, minced

  • 1 cup Stella Artois

  • 2 tablespoons butter

  • 1 ½ teaspoons Dijon mustard (optional, enhances depth)

  • 1 tablespoon crème fraîche or heavy cream (optional, for richness)

  • Fresh parsley, chopped, for garnish

  • Lemon wedges, for serving

Instructions:

  1. Clean the Mussels

    • Rinse under cold running water. Discard any with cracked or open shells that won’t close when tapped.

  2. Sauté Aromatics

    • In a large pot, heat olive oil and 1 tablespoon butter over medium heat.

    • Add shallots and cook until softened (3-4 minutes). Stir in garlic and cook for another minute.

  3. Steam the Mussels

    • Pour in the Stella Artois beer and bring to a simmer. Stir in Dijon mustard if using.

    • Add the mussels, cover, and steam for 5-7 minutes until they open.

  4. Finish the Broth

    • Remove from heat and discard any unopened mussels.

    • Stir in crème fraîche or cream (if using), along with the remaining tablespoon of butter.

  5. Serve

    • Transfer mussels to serving bowls and ladle over the beer broth.

    • Garnish with parsley and serve with lemon wedges.

Frites: The Fry Capital of the World

I don’t need to explain what French fries are. They are a staple of fast food, and I would be willing to bet that all USians have encountered them at some point in their lives. However, the true claim to being “fry capital of the world” is not a title the US or France can claim. That lies with Belgium.

In fact the term, “French fries”, is kind of a misnomer. The origin of french fries is a sharp point of contention between both Belgium and France. The most common origin story is that poor villagers along the Meuse river in the French-speaking Walloon region of Belgium lived on a diet of fish from the river, and started growing potatoes (which actually were introduced to Europe by Spain from the New World) to store for the harsh river months when the river froze. The reason for the long fried strips was to approximate the shape of the fish they were so used to eating.

Regardless of whether this is true or not, this method of cooking became popular in both Belgium and Northern France. The first mention of “french fries” was when Thomas Jefferson experienced “potatoes, fried in the French manner” as a diplomat and added them in that way to the White House menu. The more popular use of French Fry came from American soldiers stationed in the French-speaking part of Belgium during WWI, who dubbed them “French Fries” due to the language and brought them back with that term. 


French fries, or Belgian Frites, notwithstanding. It was Belgium that created the temple to the fry known as the friterie. These small stands, pop up kiosks, and sit down restaurants have served fried potatoes to the masses since the 1840s. Cheap and quick to make, frites were perfect for a rapidly industrializing, working population on the go. They also paired quite well with mussels, solidifying themselves as one half of Belgium’s national dish. The traditional Belgian way of serving it is in a “fry cone” with a glob of sauce.

Speaking of sauces, the sauces themselves are worth talking about. Belgium boasts a manner of sauces that are popular, from the tomato-sauce esque Andalouse, to the sweet Brazil sauce, to spicy Samourai. Many of these are mayonnaise based, some are ketchup based, but they are all delicious.

Traditionally Belgian fries are twice fried in beef tallow, with the second fry being done at a slightly higher temperature. I cheated a bit and used an air fryer. However, I made 3 kinds of famous Belgian fry sauces. I also happened to have some samourai sauce brought back to me from Belgium. But, I put the recipe to make your own in case you’d like.

Belgian Frites

Ingredients

  • 2-3 large russet potatoes

  • 1-2 tablespoons olive oil (or avocado oil)

  • Kosher salt

  • Optional: Paprika, garlic powder, or cayenne pepper

Instructions

  1. Slice into Fry Shapes

    • Peel potatoes.

    • Cut into small, fry-shaped strips.

  2. Soak for Maximum Crispiness

    • Place the cut potatoes in cold water for at least 30 minutes (or up to a few hours).

    • Drain and pat them completely dry.

  3. Lightly Oil

    • Toss the fries with 1-2 tablespoons of oil to help with crisping.

  4. First Fry – Low Temp for Softening

    • Preheat the air fryer to 325°F (163°C).

    • Air fry for 10-12 minutes, shaking halfway through. They should be soft but not golden yet.

  5. Second Fry – High Temp for Crisping

    • Increase the air fryer temperature to 400°F (204°C).

    • Fry for an additional 5-7 minutes, shaking halfway through, until golden and crispy.

  6. Season and Serve

    • Immediately season with kosher salt (and optional spices) while hot.

    • Serve with your choice of Belgian fry sauces.


Frites Sauces:

Curry Ketchup

Slightly sweet and spiced

Ingredients

  • ½ cup ketchup

  • 1 teaspoon curry powder

  • ½ teaspoon paprika

  • 1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce

  • ½ teaspoon sugar

  • 1 tablespoon vinegar

  • Pinch of salt

Andalouse Sauce

Slightly spicy, tangy mayo-based sauce

Ingredients

  • ½ cup mayonnaise

  • 2 tablespoons ketchup

  • 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

  • 1 tablespoon finely minced shallot (optional)

  • 1 teaspoon paprika

  • ½ teaspoon cayenne pepper (adjust to taste)

  • 1 teaspoon white vinegar

  • Salt and pepper to taste

Brasil Sauce

Sweet and fruity

Ingredients

  • ½ cup mayonnaise

  • 2 tablespoons ketchup

  • 1 tablespoon pineapple juice (or finely blended pineapple)

  • 1 teaspoon curry powder

  • 1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce

  • ½ teaspoon Dijon mustard

  • ½ teaspoon paprika

  • Salt and pepper to taste

Samourai Sauce

Bold and spicy

Ingredients

  • ½ cup mayonnaise

  • 1 tablespoon harissa paste (or sriracha for a milder version)

  • 1 teaspoon lemon juice

  • 1 teaspoon tomato paste

  • Salt to taste

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